One of the "controversies" in Paraset replica making are the rivets used. On close study of the original photos it can be seen that on all the known samples, the tube sockets are fixed in place with rivets. Simple? Well, I venture to guess the hardware used definitely not modern “Pop rivets”.
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| Ser No. 2357 Photo by SM7UCZ |
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| Ser No 7629 Photo By F6EJU |
Studies of these photos show the center of these are open, not solid. The initial plan I had was to use pop rivet tool and make a tool that uses the ⅛-inch shaft that only presses (swage) the rivets in place and does not break off the little ball inside. This tool gets a little complicated to make as it has to be shaped to roll the edges.
I suppose you could also drill out the rivet after it is set to simulate the original.
But I think these are more precisely “eyelets” Here is a link to some electronic riveting hardware: Keystone
No need to special order any. I found some kits which are actually readily available at craft and sewing stores! The Tandy #3632-00 consist of a little tool that folds the edges neatly and an anvil to hammer against, and a little dimple in the anvil to roll both sides:
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| Tandy Leather Supply #3632-00 |
I also bought bought both a snap kit #3630-00:
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| Tandy Leather #3630-00 |
The problem is the eyelets in the kit are 3/16" not the correct size. The snap kit has a smaller tool.
This should fit the ⅛" eyelets I have, the combinations of the two tools, the smaller one for bottom and the larger one for the top as the anvil.
Why? The issue I see with the supplied anvil is; there is no clearance from the tube socket on the bottom, it must be centered as it is actually concave, and I fear the tool will leave a mark in the finished surface from the top since this has to be done after the decals and the finish are complete.
I will clamp or hold one tool as the anvil in the vice, on the top side of the chassis, and tap the other with a small hammer to set the rivet from the bottom of the chassis. It will be a balancing act but this gives the reach needed to set them.
Now I have an eyelet and snap tool to repair the eyelet on my favorite hiking boots and fix the snap on Wax Coat I got in Scotland as well!
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I saw that one builder, Jean Claude (F6EJU) in France, was looking for assistance on finding proper rivets for the “cash box”; he likes to make exact replicas. I remembered that I had found some of these exact rivets to use as contacts for the key!
I sent some to him after he confirmed they looked OK.
There is a volcano in Iceland, no air travel in EU so I have no idea when he will get them ~ Mailed him a pound or so this week so he could complete his authentic cash box!
